I'm working on a upgrade for this system so keep your eyes on this spot in the next few months. I decided to use a car heater core from a citi golf as a heat exchanger to improve the heat conduction and imprive the layout and efficiency. Exiting stuff...
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Monday, November 17, 2008
Radiator
Okay...
Now the radiator system...
Because I'm on a very tight budget i decided to make my own one seeing that if i wanted to go buy one I would need to spend more than R350. Ive seen a number of people using car radiators or motorbike ones but the flow throw them are bad and with my high flow rate low head pump i couldn't use them.
The final design was going to incorporate 3 tin cans and a fan on a copper base plate. No, fins you say. Well... I decided to incorporate the original large heat sink if it was required.
Here are the things that are required for the build. The cans, 1m copper pipe and plate are not shower.
Now a close-up of the pipe connections.
This is the pipe flow configuration that i decided on. This is a bottom few of the pre-radiator.
After lots and lots of soldering and fixing leak after leak the system was tested. Here is a video...
The system is running much cooler now. On 100% CPU without a fan we could only get it 62'C and on idle its at 32'C. I haven't but any heat past on, i now...
The system still needs lots of work. Keep an Eye as I improve and update
Now the radiator system...
Because I'm on a very tight budget i decided to make my own one seeing that if i wanted to go buy one I would need to spend more than R350. Ive seen a number of people using car radiators or motorbike ones but the flow throw them are bad and with my high flow rate low head pump i couldn't use them.
The final design was going to incorporate 3 tin cans and a fan on a copper base plate. No, fins you say. Well... I decided to incorporate the original large heat sink if it was required.
Here are the things that are required for the build. The cans, 1m copper pipe and plate are not shower.
Now a close-up of the pipe connections.
This is the pipe flow configuration that i decided on. This is a bottom few of the pre-radiator.
After lots and lots of soldering and fixing leak after leak the system was tested. Here is a video...The system is running much cooler now. On 100% CPU without a fan we could only get it 62'C and on idle its at 32'C. I haven't but any heat past on, i now...
The system still needs lots of work. Keep an Eye as I improve and update
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Water Block
I started of a copper block 76x82x19.5 and milled it to 80x69x19 to fit into my CPU cooling clamp unit. I was planning to make my water block with a fast flowing fin design because of the lack of proper head from my pump and the fact that my system presses the cooling block onto the CPU from a central pressure point.
However... There were no small milling tips in the workshop. The smallest one i could find was 16mm, therefore the fin idea was aborted for a clean free flow setup.
However... when i almost finished the inner block design i dropped the cutter while removing it. This left me with a asymmetrical center block. Oooo well...
Not too bad at all i think. Here is a video of us milling the flow profile for the water.
It took most of the day to do this but it was so worth it. The block finish was smooth and shiny and ready for soldering. I then too the 2mm plate and drilled to 10mm holes in it and places the pipe connection in them. I placed the newly made "lid" on the milled block in the stove to be soldered. The large amount of heat did the trick and the water block was one after only about 2 mins of soldering.
To make sure i was still on the right track i decided to do a fitting of the un-finished block in the PC. I found that because there was such a limited space in the case the pipes clashed with the hard drive bay.
Therefore I kicked the floppy drive out and moved the drive one level up. Here you can see that there is enough space for the pipe to bend with out any kinks in it to restrict the water flow.
I know the water block is far from completion but at least i now know it all fits. The Next step is to sand and clean the block. Then before i give it the final go-ahead i'll pressure test it to 6bar so that i know i won't loose my "Busty Blond".
However... There were no small milling tips in the workshop. The smallest one i could find was 16mm, therefore the fin idea was aborted for a clean free flow setup.
However... when i almost finished the inner block design i dropped the cutter while removing it. This left me with a asymmetrical center block. Oooo well...
Not too bad at all i think. Here is a video of us milling the flow profile for the water.It took most of the day to do this but it was so worth it. The block finish was smooth and shiny and ready for soldering. I then too the 2mm plate and drilled to 10mm holes in it and places the pipe connection in them. I placed the newly made "lid" on the milled block in the stove to be soldered. The large amount of heat did the trick and the water block was one after only about 2 mins of soldering.
To make sure i was still on the right track i decided to do a fitting of the un-finished block in the PC. I found that because there was such a limited space in the case the pipes clashed with the hard drive bay.
Therefore I kicked the floppy drive out and moved the drive one level up. Here you can see that there is enough space for the pipe to bend with out any kinks in it to restrict the water flow.
I know the water block is far from completion but at least i now know it all fits. The Next step is to sand and clean the block. Then before i give it the final go-ahead i'll pressure test it to 6bar so that i know i won't loose my "Busty Blond".
Pump Selection
I went down to my local hardware store and bought the cheapest pump i could find seeing that
I'm on a on a very tight budget.
It is rated at 1100 liters/hour and has a 1.3m head. I only later did my research and found that the pumps that are used in mainstream water cooling systems have 2x the head but half the flow rate. Looking deeper into the situation I realized the head was thee to over come the friction in the system. Therefore i needed to make my pipes shorter and thicker and my block easier to flow through otherwise I would not get any flow through my system.
This what my Pump Box said
sorry for the poor quality but the cheap box was printed badly.
I did some re-testing to make sure the system works okay. After some measuring i found that the pump has a flow rate of about 4 liter/min with 4 meter of 10mm hose which seems good enough to get the job.
I'm on a on a very tight budget.
It is rated at 1100 liters/hour and has a 1.3m head. I only later did my research and found that the pumps that are used in mainstream water cooling systems have 2x the head but half the flow rate. Looking deeper into the situation I realized the head was thee to over come the friction in the system. Therefore i needed to make my pipes shorter and thicker and my block easier to flow through otherwise I would not get any flow through my system.
This what my Pump Box said
sorry for the poor quality but the cheap box was printed badly.I did some re-testing to make sure the system works okay. After some measuring i found that the pump has a flow rate of about 4 liter/min with 4 meter of 10mm hose which seems good enough to get the job.
The Start of my PC Water Cooling Journey
I decided to invest into a water cooling system for my X-shuttle PC. Its been used as a server/media/TV system at the moment. The problem is it tends to over heat very quickly. I'm connected to a complex network system and seeing that i usually obtain all the new series etc. my PC gets raped and i can't watch all my new series when the PC starts lagging caused by over heating. I used PC Wizard 2008 to indicate my PC's vitals on the run. On average the system will run at 65*C and when she really gets worked had she gets to 98*C and turns off. The system is very small but i like the sleek look.
System
OS - Windows XP (Soon to be Ubuntu 8.10 server)
CPU - P4 2.4 MHz (over clocked to 2.666MHz)
RAM - 1.5 Gig DDR 266Hz
Seeing that "Busty Blond" is the heart of my media center I'm going to be entertain less as we will Journey to the land on over clocked, water cooled systems of the future......
I did some reading on this kinda system modding and only really found that http://webx.dk/oz2cpu/pcmod/water.htm to be any good. My system has a different configuration there will not stick to these guidelines to strictly. Between all that YouTube crap found this video
Here are a few picks i have taken to give you an idea where I'm starting...
This a block of copper I obtained from a local metal retailer 76x82x19.5. This will be used to make the water block for the CPU. It cost me in the regain of R110.
I don't really know way i got this peace of copper 2mm plate but know i'm going to use it somewhere and i was not planning to go back to buy more copper seeing that it was a far and dodge drive to the metal distributer. Cost me R45 i think.
Now we are getting to the more interesting design past of the project. I got a the 2mm copper square plate for radiators base construction, tin (Yes tin, not aluminum) cans and fountain centrifugal water pump. The pump was R150 from buildersware house and the copper R50. Details on the pump will be given soon
Even though the system is very much old school I'm not planning to buy a new system soon so I might as well play around with this one. Here are a few picks of the guts of my system.
A very small setup. Explaining the over heating problem in a country like South Africa.
System
OS - Windows XP (Soon to be Ubuntu 8.10 server)
CPU - P4 2.4 MHz (over clocked to 2.666MHz)
RAM - 1.5 Gig DDR 266Hz
Seeing that "Busty Blond" is the heart of my media center I'm going to be entertain less as we will Journey to the land on over clocked, water cooled systems of the future......
I did some reading on this kinda system modding and only really found that http://webx.dk/oz2cpu/pcmod/water.htm to be any good. My system has a different configuration there will not stick to these guidelines to strictly. Between all that YouTube crap found this video
Here are a few picks i have taken to give you an idea where I'm starting...
This a block of copper I obtained from a local metal retailer 76x82x19.5. This will be used to make the water block for the CPU. It cost me in the regain of R110.
I don't really know way i got this peace of copper 2mm plate but know i'm going to use it somewhere and i was not planning to go back to buy more copper seeing that it was a far and dodge drive to the metal distributer. Cost me R45 i think.
Now we are getting to the more interesting design past of the project. I got a the 2mm copper square plate for radiators base construction, tin (Yes tin, not aluminum) cans and fountain centrifugal water pump. The pump was R150 from buildersware house and the copper R50. Details on the pump will be given soon
Even though the system is very much old school I'm not planning to buy a new system soon so I might as well play around with this one. Here are a few picks of the guts of my system.
A very small setup. Explaining the over heating problem in a country like South Africa.
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